Since Port Nolloth we have been heading south and stopping at places we like the look of (or that have gas stations). Having been disappointed so far in our search for a friendly, small, quanit fishing town with a welcoming atmosphere and opportunities to fish for our own supper, we pinned our hopes on Honderklipbaai (Stone of the Dog). Our journey here was hassle free through expanses of land covered in different types of flowers, past rocks with seals sunbathing and round a number of tortoises crossing the road.
Two weeks later, we are still here and haven’t been disappointed.
We have spent our time living right on the beach underneath the lighthouse (where the caravan, honestly, happened to get stuck in the sand),
‘Catching’ our own mussels has become addictive and very satisfying; eating them knowing they have been harvested and prepared myself makes them taste even better. For someone who isn’t overly keen on fish and things that live in the sea I wasn’t enthusiastic about sticking my hand in and pulling the mussels out but once I got into it there was no stopping me especially in areas full of the biggest mussels I have ever seen.
We’ve been welcomed by locals, explored shipwrecks,
eaten delicious chocolate cake at the only coffee shop in town
explored the Namaqualand Flowers,
and discovered the rugged coastline and mining land that is scattered with holes (large and small) where people have tried their luck to find any diamonds the miners may have missed.
I am getting (slowly) used to the survival way of living. Having been camping for no longer than a weekend, it’s been an adjustment learning to live off grid with no amenities. Something the boy has found hard to understand as it comes fairly naturally to him (maybe it’s a boy / girl thing?). I am getting the hang of living off salt water for washing me and washing up, filling 5 litre containers of water when we venture into town and rationing them, using the bushes as toilets and going to sleep, as well as waking up to, the sound of the waves outside the door. It makes you realize just how simple life really can be.
We’ve chilled out in this small town, made friends with local shop owners and their families and been treated as part of the gang. We have used natural resources to make crafts to be sold locally (I realised I have much less artistic talent than the boy).
The dogs have had a fabulous time on the beach, climbing the rocks and getting up close and personal with unfamiliar creatures.
Sadly, while here in Hondeklipbaai, 4 became 3 as Boy Dog passed away. He had an awesome life and is now resting in ‘Dog Stone Bay’
As well as exploring the coastline, we’ve traveled inland over, and through, lush green mountains and passes.
Not even our 3rd tyre blow out has taken away from the beauty and contrasts of this coastline and the magic of the sunsetting over the sea.